Macro photography bugs manual#
However, when the insect is in flight - I’m just not fast enough to use manual focus, and that’s really when I rely on the Sony technology for help. And so making sure that the eyes are in perfect focus is just easier with manual focus versus autofocus for such tiny creatures. When you're shooting a human or an animal or something like that, the eyes are what should be in focus. Manual focus is best if it's a stationary subject because you can be real precise. I shoot a combination of manual focus and autofocus, just depending on the situation and the subject. Or I'll crank it all the way up to f/13 or f/16 if I'm in a situation where I'm using artificial light with the macro lens, but f/10 is just kind of my jumping off point.
So f/10 is just kind of that go-to and then I'll dial it down closer to eight if the natural light is starting to wane at the end of the day and I need a little bit more natural light. And f/10 just really seems to be the sweet spot for me with both my macro lens and the telephoto lens. Choose Your Aperture Wiselyį/8 to f/11 tends to be the sharpest range of the lens. and maybe even a little bit faster if it's a really bright condition. When I'm shooting with natural light, I'll shoot anywhere between about 1/800-sec. The telephoto setup puts you too far away from your subject to use flash, so in those instances, you’re going to depend on natural light. With flash you can be as wide open as you want, as long as you don't let too much ambient light in because now the flash is going to do the job of freezing the subject. I would say the biggest difference between shooting with the telephoto lens versus the macro lens is that with a macro lens, I'm typically going to use flash and a diffuser as well so you don't get that harsh flash light. And even if it’s not a flying creature - let’s say it’s a bee that’s going around a flower and pollinating, they still move really fast, so you’ll still want to freeze that motion. You get to see the action and detail that we can’t really see with the naked eye.
Macro photography bugs free#
When shooting insects in flight, you really want to free that motion, that’s what makes these images so fascinating.
Macro photography bugs upgrade#
But I’m getting to the point where I’ve had it for about four years now, so I think this year I’ll upgrade to the Sony Alpha 7R IV. The camera I use is the Sony Alpha 7R III and I’m happy with my camera. When I’m using the telephoto lens to shoot insects, I use the Sony 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 G Master lens. Then there's others that prefer you to keep your distance and so I use a telephoto lens for those situations.įor the macro setup, I primarily use the Sony 90mm f/2.8 Macro G lens. Those I can photograph with an actual macro lens. I do a lot of in-flight insects and so some of them are a little less skittish and they'll let you get close to them. Here he shares his top camera setup tips to capture a small world with big action.
Photographer Jose Madrigal’s focus is on pollinators and dragonflies. See what he had to say below and get outside to see what you can capture in your frame! We sat down with Madrigal for his top camera setup tips for photographing macro and insects in flight. He hopes that his work inspires the public to care more about these vulnerable creatures. Madrigal teaches macro photography, has sold hundreds of artistic prints through galleries and art festivals, and is passionate about the subjects he photographs. He is particularly interested in shooting these insects in flight, loving the extra challenge. Jose Madrigal ( is a photographer focused on pollinators and dragonflies.
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